How would you describe your creation for HOC x Mateo - Malachite?

Malachite fragrance is based on a woody accord of cedarwood and vetiver from Haiti. The vetiver has different facets, from citrus-grapefruit, woody, earthy and even smoky aspects. I believe, this combination translates very well the different tones of green of the Malachite stone.

I wanted to create a masculine fragrance, elegant, with noble natural ingredients that represent strength and power.

How do you balance your own artistic desires with market trends and consumer preferences?

Ideas come to my mind with the combination of ingredients. I usually think of a main theme. But I obviously need to balance the fragrance, making it desirable and wearable. Then, we also need to keep in mind that regulatory is important and may impact significantly the fragrance formula. We must keep in mind that inspirations are not always feasible and need to be modified according to safety requirements. I usually tend to avoid thinking of consumer trends for Niche perfumery as I prefer to focus on desirability, balance and originality in the creative

Do you think that it is important to follow the trends?

Trends in perfumery can provide insight into consumer preferences for sure. But being disruptive is also an opportunity to catch the attention and create new trends.

Do you have your favourite ingredient or an ingredient you are obsessed with at the moment?

I love natural and multifaceted ingredients. I have always been intrigued by clary sage for example, an aromatic natural ingredient, that smells very fresh aromatic, almost like a lavender, but as also a strong hay-like tone. I have used it in this fragrance to help the spicy top notes to blend nicely with the woody heart.

Were there any specific challenges you encountered while blending the ingredients for Malachite?

The main challenge was to blend the spicy top notes with the woods. I also wanted to have a lasting silage. Balancing the woody and spicy notes, not to be overpowering but staying elegant.

What makes you decide that the fragrance is done and there is no more modification needed?

The most important is to test it on the skin and with different persons. I follow the smell for hours. Finalizing the creation usually comes like an evidence. We love it or not. I can completely forget an idea if the desired effect is not achieved. In some cases it’s just about modifying slightly an accord or an aspect of the fragrance. This is what I love in this job, every project is a challenge full of surprises.

What ensure that the fragrances stands out, on your opinion?

An outstanding fragrance needs first of all to have an olfactive signature. I love people opening their eyes, being almost shocked and pleased when smelling a fragrance for the first time. Originality and be easily recognizable are the most important characteristics.

In what way would you push the boundaries of traditional perfumery to create unique and memorable scent experiences?

Overdosing or using unusual ingredients is one of my favourite method to create unique scents. But it’s not always successful and very often needs experimenting.